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ernaison is the historical birthplace of the Paris Saint-Ouen
Flea Market because it was here, in 1920, that the first organised
market was born. At the time, Romain Vernaison, who held a concession
on market pitches at the Halles de Paris, and then rented deckchairs
in the parks of Paris, owned a plot of land in Saint-Ouen where
he set up a series of pre-fabricated wooden huts on the area
known as the "26 arpents". The village spirit of this
new market attracted bric-a-brac merchants, discount traders
and, crucially, period furniture dealers. It was an overnight
success. Gradually, up until the end of World War Two, the wooden
shacks were replaced by more permanent stands. With 9,000 m2
of floorspace and over 300 stands, Vernaison is and will remain
the leading market, an abiding memory of how commercial success
came to this part of the Paris region. The "Paris Saint-Ouen
Flea Market" was born here.
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For a while, perhaps,
Vernaison may have felt threatened by the emergence of new, more richly
furnished markets which made the older market look a little rundown
and disorganised. Yet today, it represents just what visitors come
to the Flea Market for - authenticity. |
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Vernaison is regarded
by some as the cheapest market. The dealers have much lower rents
to pay than in the neighbouring markets, which allows them to be involved
in jumble sales or so-called ÒChatouÓ-style fairs. This has enabled
them to remain faithful to the original bric-a-brac tradition. Most
of the customers are from the general public, though the professionals
are not forgotten, making the market welcoming and attractive, oblivious
to the siren calls of the latest fashion. It is, of course, the best
way never to go out of fashion! A few years ago Vernaison changed
its legal status, going from a common rent-based system, when it used
to belong to property developers, to a system of joint-owned plots.
The result has been that the traders, having become in effect the
proud owners of the market, are ready to invest even more time and
energy than beforehand. Real estate interests have joined forces with
commercial interests, and the quality of Vernaison has improved as
a result..
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You can still find
everything here, from the modest to the superb. Most pieces are originals,
often in need of restoration, but not always. Vernaison is a patch
of countryside in the city, a veritable bric-a-brac heaven. No need
here to be ashamed of being a casual bargain hunter, because the traders
will always welcome you with open arms. It is a real maze of alleyways,
some of which are covered, others open to the elements, many of which
are dead ends.
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The whole place,
including the wonderful little stalls, is covered in Virginia creeper.
The restaurant Òchez LouisetteÓ is an absolute must, because of its
friendly atmosphere where you can enjoy post-war songs.
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